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Ritu Kumar’s Varanasi Weaves- Reviving the Lost Art of Handloom Weaving

About 15 years ago, as part of a Corporate Social Responsibility (CSR) initiative, Ritu Kumar, along with Rahul Jain, set out to revive the woven Banarasi saris in Varanasi (Benares). At that time, the original craft of weaving authentic Banarasi saris had been lost. Over the years, handspun yarns traditionally used in these saris were replaced by cheaper Chinese yarns, and the intricate designs were diluted by the excessive use of metallic plastics. The result was a stiff, unflattering sari that no longer upheld its legacy.

The mission was clear: to bring back the original aesthetic and feel of the vintage Banarasi saris. Kumar realized the extent of this decline when she attempted to include Banarasi saris in the wardrobes of Miss World pageant contestants, only to find that the saris had become unflattering on the human figure. This issue had gone largely unnoticed, as most businesses in the field were run by men, and the change in the sari’s wearability was not prioritized.

To understand what had gone wrong, Kumar and Jain referred to older pieces in museums. They discovered that, over the course of 150 years, the structure of the sari had changed dramatically. Weavers were now using plastic in place of real gola threads, and ahimsa silk had been replaced with synthetic Chinese yarns. Handweaving and hand-rolling silk had also been abandoned. The traditional, high-quality Banarasi sari had all but disappeared.

 

 

 

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Determined to restore the lost craftsmanship, Kumar and Jain worked closely with the weavers to reintroduce and preserve the old techniques. Their efforts culminated in a grand showcase in 2015 at Lakme Fashion Week in Mumbai, where the revived Banarasi saris were unveiled to a wider audience. As part of their initiative, the revived saris were sold in stores for a year, after which the weavers were encouraged to connect directly with consumers.

Today, we are witnessing a significant resurgence of organic Indian handlooms in the fashion industry. The demand for authentic Banarasi saris, especially for bridal and festive occasions, has skyrocketed, leading to a renewed appreciation for this timeless craft. This renewed interest is not only benefiting the weavers but is also inspiring young designers to reinterpret the traditional Banarasi sari, keeping its rich heritage alive while making it relevant for modern wearers.

 

This revival, driven by Ritu Kumar’s dedication to preserving India’s textile heritage, stands as a testament to the power of innovation, tradition, and social responsibility in preserving our cultural legacy.

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